Double 14er Mini Tour [Pikes Peak & Mt Evans: 9/25-10/1; 430mi, +41,000ft]

On a cold, soggy late August morning in Dresden, I opened my email to find a note from my bike-adventure-maniac friend Justin Simoni. It went something like, "Hey your trip looks like it's going great. Got any climbing legs left? Because...."   And he went on to inform me that during this September only, the folks who operate the Pikes Peak Highway tollroad are allowing bicycles on their road for the first time ever. Want to come ride up Pikes (14,110ft) and Mt Evans (14,264ft) with him? Sure!!

I have to admit I was pretty nervous about agreeing to ride with Justin for several days. He routinely takes adventure touring to a new level, he's insanely fast and mighty determined. He's got lightweight touring down pat. He won top singlespeed honors Great Divide Mountain Bike Race this year. As for me? Sure, I'd been touring for 3 months, but it wasn't fast or light, and it certainly wasn't at high altitudes. Until riding around in Ned last week, the highest I'd been since May was around 9,000ft on the Cime de la Bonnette in France. But what the hey, I'll give it a go. We planned an interesting route- Denver south to Waterton Canyon, then about a dozen miles of singletrack on the Colorado Trail, 50mi of dirt roads to Woodland Park, up Pikes Peak, north to pick up the CO Trail again to Bailey, over Guanella Pass, up Mt Evans and then back to Denver.

The weather was looking a bit dicey for the next few days, but not imposing enough to cancel the trip. So we set off to Tuesday evening and camped in the drizzle a little ways up the CO Trail. The next morning was alternatively fun and challenging negotiating 10mi of switchback singletrack on the CO Trail. Cyclocross-singletrack touring is an interesting endeavor to say the least. 

Justin, one half of the two CX touring weirdos

the Colorado Trail

The trail was a fun way to start the trip, but I could immediately tell there was no way I was going to keep up with Justin. This became even more evident along the 40mi of endless rolling hills and soft dirt that was Rampart Range Rd. We spent the day somehow sneaking in between some massive thunderstorms along the way, me feeling increasingly frustrated at my inability to keep Justin in my sights. He was totally mellow about it, never got impatient or agitated- but it's no fun for either rider when there's such a discrepancy of speed.

The next morning we paid our $10 admission fee (they charge the same for a bike as for a car, but at least we're allowed in) and began riding up the 19mi climb from the entrance gate in Cascade to the top of "America's Mountain". The colors were still gorgeous!

Pikes Peak, our destination

Justin was waiting for me at the Halfway Point picnic grounds (mileage wise, anyway) and I told him to go on ahead without me. I was going to get myself up to the summit, but I didn't want him to spend half a day waiting for me. And I knew I didn't have it in me to ride over Guanella Pass (11,669ft) the next day, and Mt. Evans the day after that. We shook hands, wished each other luck, and he quickly disappeared around the next bend. I was on my own now- I really enjoyed riding with Justin, but it felt good to turn him loose and now poke along at my own snail's pace.

I got to the Glen Cove cafe/gift shop at 11,450ft and stopped in to use the bathroom, eat a snack and have a coffee. Some clouds were rolling over the ridge to the west and a few snow flakes were blowing around. As I readied to continue up the road, the ranger informed me that the road above was now closed until this storm passed. And he advised me that I really ought to head back down before it got worse. "Just sayin', this is 27 years of experience here talkin'." Fair enough, but I went inside and refilled my coffee to wait and see what the skies would do. I only had 6mi to go before the top; it would be a shame to ride down from here. The snow/sleet continued to build, the same ranger then said there's a 2nd, larger storm about 40min out, and that I really, really should get off the mountain now. I decided he was right- I couldn't go up because the road was closed, and I was potentially going to descend in accumulating snow or ice. I retreated; the weather had got me.

Round 1 goes to Mother Nature

Three times now I've attempted to summit a 14er using only my own power and transport... ie no driving to the trailhead. I tried Mt Evans this spring on my road bike but turned back at 10,500ft. In May I toured to Longs Peak, hiked into a blizzard and made it up to just 300ft below the summit before I couldn't safely get any further. And now I'd been foiled on Pikes as well. As I descended the sleet thawed into rain; I stopped into a diner in Cascade for lunch and to see what the storms were going to do. They got worse, just as the ranger predicted. It poured rain, it poured hail, and it still looked threatening. Justin had been fast enough to get ahead of the road closure- I knew he was somewhere up high in this mess, but then again this is sort of his forte and I knew he'd survive just fine.

And I threw in the towel. I was wet, cold, tired, and mentally demolished. I waited for a break in the precip and coasted down towards Colorado Springs where I could hop on the regional FREX bus back to Denver. All I wanted was a hot shower, a blanket and a bowl of steamy soup. It hurt to quit: I've never been a fast rider, but I've never been a quitter. However I'd had it- I was cracked.

On the way down I did take a sidetrack to ride around Garden of the Gods, which I'd been wanting to see. It's a cool city park, kind of CO Springs' version of Denver's Red Rocks Park.

Garden of the Gods

When I stopped into the Visitor Center in the Springs, I was told the FREX bus has stopped running. Like, for good. Dammit! Now I was down in the Front Range city sprawl, still wet and cold, and looking at riding ~85mi back to Denver on flat, boring, busy roads. I started making my way north through the endless suburbia that is CO Springs and well after nightfall, discovered a great 'campsite' beneath a bridge of a 4 lane divided highway.

morning #3: under the bridge

I woke up well rested, dry and warm. As I emerged from beneath the bridge to continue the slog back to Denver, I turned around and stared at Pikes Peak looming large in the sky. Without a cloud around, it was a perfect day. Pikes was shimmering with the fresh snow it picked up yesterday afternoon, it was calling me back. No way I'm going to quit! I turned around and backtracked through the Springs and back up the canyon, intent on getting to the top of this mountain after all. I can do this, and I'm gonna do this.

By the time I'd resupplied food, eaten breakfast and backtracked (mostly) uphill for 30mi, it was getting a little too late to try to ride to the top today. So I enjoyed a chill afternoon in the little artsy mountain town of Manitou Springs and waited for darkness to come in order to begin in earnest early tomorrow. And what a sight the next morning from camp:

morning #4: a clear shot at my mark

I made it up to the summit around 1pm with bluebird skies and a fantastic sense of accomplishment. My first 14er-- and all under my own power. Fourth time's a charm, apparently.

Pikes Peak summit!!

The vibe was reminiscent of the big Cols in the French Alps- lots of cyclists around and a strong sense of camaraderie amongst us. It was cool to see so many bikes up top, as well as those still grinding up or already zipping down. The summit it a bit of a circus: there's the auto road, there's a popular hiking trail and there's the Manitou Pikes Peak Cog Railway that brings groups of tourists to the summit, including heffers in flip-flops and old ladies asking (sincerely) for supplemental oxygen. There's a gift shop and a restaurant, it's essentially ski-resort-meets-tourist-trap.

No, I did not spend the $20 for this shirt...

The ride down was pretty fun, and pretty cold. The road (like most in Colorado) is just not steep/winding enough to be serious fun like I had in the Alps... but you can't have it all every time. I gathered up my panniers which I'd stashed in the woods closer to the bottom and took some gravel backroads to get back to Woodland Park for another tasty burger and more groceries. Next stop: Mt Evans! The weather outlook was solid and I'd become very determined to accomplish my original goal of riding up both the 14ers with paved roads to the tops.

My route north to Evergreen passed through vast sections of the Hayman Fire burn scars from 10 years ago, and I rode late into the night under the silver glow of the full moon. A little spooky yet completely sublime.

Hayman Fire scar and "burning" aspens

I arrived in Evergreen the next afternoon and finally ate at the Tin Star Cafe- where they serve up fantastic BBQ and fresh homemade donuts. Best. idea. ever.

Pulled pork BBQ, homemade chips, fresh donut. Yes!

Evening turned to night as I rode under the full moon past Squaw Pass and up to the Echo Lake Campground (10,600ft) for the night. Luckily for touring cyclists like myself, the campground and the Mt Evans summit road had already been closed for the season- therefore free campground and no cars for the last 14mi to the top. Sweet.

The next morning I stashed my panniers again and pedaled the 14mi/3700ft up to the summit of my 2nd 14er in 3 days. and what a day- with the road closure I was literally all alone at the summit, save for a small herd of hearty mule deer.

Mt Evans summit @ 14, 264ft

Gotta say I'm pretty happy to have pedaled the highest paved roads on two continents in one summer: The "La plus haute d'Europe" on the Cime de la Bonnette, and now Mt Evans. Not too shabby.

After that it was back through Evergreen, then Golden and 'home' to Denver. What a great trip- made all the sweeter knowing how close I was to giving up. Here's to second chances, and perseverance.

As for Justin: he summitted Pikes in the nasty storm, then hiked three additional 14ers (Bierstadt, Greys and Torreys) en route to Evans. And he made it home a full day before I did. Different strokes for different folks- I knew he's in a different league. Nice work, buddy, and thanks for putting this idea in my head!

My route: