Prague is on par with Rome & Florence as one of the most interesting and fun cities I've been to this summer. There's still a bit of a bohemian gypsy vibe here with lots of street musicians. And there's a Vegas vibe as well: distinctly different crowds of daytime tourists and the nightlife clubber set, beer & cocktails for sale at sidewalk vendors, a bit of an 'anything goes' attitude.
After all these tourist laden cities I've visited this summer, I finally talked myself into splurging on a guided walking tour- The Prague Underground- to learn more about the history of this place. It was very informative and worth the $13... I learned that back in the 13th century, tired of frequent flooding from the river, they raised the street level by 3 to 8 meters, burying the first floor of all the houses in the process. This network of basements and tunnels proved handy to the resistance fighters during the Nazi occupation and now provides a perfect home to numerous dive bars and nightclubs. And hence a thriving nightlife scene was unintentionally fostered.
the Prague underground circa yr 1200 |
Later in the evening I splurged again ($20) to hear a classical concert at Church St. Giles, a 13th century Romanesque church with a huge pipe organ constructed in 1737. It boasts 3500 reed pipes, 50 ranks and 3 manuals. I have no idea what that means specifically, but I know that being engulfed in the acoustics of that immense cathedral with a bellowing pipe organ was unreal. The program was a sort of 'greatest hits of the Baroque era' and it was great to hear many familiar pieces. The hands down highlight, however, was Bach's Toccata & Fugue in D Minor: the famously ominous organ piece that is familiar as the intro to some funky 70's disco hit.
Church St. Giles |
During my wander back to the hostel after the concert, I passed a real-deal absinthe bar... an essentially illegal alcohol in the US because it contains wormwood (an allegedly psychedelic elixir.) I couldn't pass up the opportunity to try an absinthe cafe mocha... in a to-go cup no less. As I said, it's a little 'Vegas' here. It was a little trippy... a fun treat. And then I went to bed at 11:30pm, like the good church-goer that I am.
absinthe mocha frappe... tasted better than it looks here! |
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